Defining Fashion

BT More celebrates important milestones in men's fashion by presenting the most unique products and innovations by top brands over the years.
     Print Edition: June 9, 2013

The Gommino Effect
While we were all busy concentrating on the shoe, the elves at TOD's worked silently on its underbelly creating what went on to become an iconic innovation for the brand. The result, a practical albeit aesthetically attractive sole dotted with tiny pebble-like rubber structures that add a dimension to the loafer even from the downside-up.


Coined the Gommino, an Italian name translated to mean 'rubber tip', this idea was born in the late 1970s to satisfy a void for a beautiful, well made shoe, which could be worn in a professional, elegant or casual environment. Combining classic Italian style with comfort and practicality, the casual-chic moccasin took inspiration from the driving shoes used in the 50s and established its trademark through a sole covered with 133 rubber pebbles in the same colour as the leather used for the shoe.


There are over 100 steps involved. From hand cutting the pieces that form the basic structure to sewing together all of the individual parts, each component is individually treated, and checked before being assembled into its final form. The entire process is done by hand by an artisan specifically qualified to the task. Evolving over the years, this model has been updated multiple times, resulting in several distinct models, each maintaining the brand's unique style. Tod's entered the Indian market six years ago, and today, the Gommino loafer has come to define style and comfort, and is an essential element in the wardrobe of the fashion forward male.


Bandhgala goes Global
To quote the man behind the label, the new Bandhgala jacket by Tom Ford has been conceptualised and created specifically for the desi market to address the Indian male's "sense of style that comes from a tradition of dressing to celebrate." Having always been a fan of the Nehru jacket at the core of Indian tradition, the designer recreated the piece, endowing it with his eponymous label's signature sartorial standards and exclusively woven fabric. It has today become one of its most iconic pieces, combining British sartorialism, an Italian finish and exotic eastern lines. This stylish jacket is fabricated following a canvas construction which enables the garment to take its form from the contours of the body and allow natural movement. The cut and fit of the garment have been meticulously studied to ensure that it acts as a second skin. The fabrics on offer include luxurious, dark evening wool as well as various jewel tone colours of shantung, from topaz and steel blue to dusty lilac. Baring all the elements of an evening jacket from brand Tom Ford, including matching buttons in grosgrain or satin and an evening cuff detail, few launches have had an international impact like this.


100 Years of Zegna
One of the most notable labels to come out of Italy, Ermenegildo Zegna completed 100 years in 2010. To mark the momentous occasion, the brand collaborated with Tateossianto to develop a pair of limited edition cufflinks. Produced in just 100 pieces, this solid 18-carat gold cufflink replicates the Zegna centennial seal and is embedded with diamonds. Each pair has been designed in London and meticulously handcrafted by the Tateossian goldsmiths of Italy.

Kei to Canali
Kei to Canali

The Kei to Canali
Taking a traditional staple and stripping it down to its skeletal structure only to rebuild and restructure it with a contemporary twist, Canali's Kei jacket is an exemplary example of the brand's love for innovation. Though a Kei has neither internal structure nor lining, it possesses impeccably sharp lines that are softened by the lack of thickness and reduced padding. Its natural lines magnify the shoulders, making them the point of focus. Launched in 2009, it transformed a dated concept into a versatile garment that doubles up as a shirt in the summer and a layer in winter. Bringing together tailoring inspired by the Neapolitan tradition and a typically Lombard style of execution, the Kei epitomises all things Italian and is a unique piece that embodies the values of Canali's sartorial world.

Mon Louis Vuitton
Mon Louis Vuitton

Mon Louis Vuitton
For Louis Vuitton, exclusivity and travel are values that lie at the core of the brand. To this end, they've made a tradition of undertaking special orders for catering to every whim of their clients. Customise your Louis Vuitton article by selecting from one of two types of personalisation - hot-stamp your initials onto a wide selection of soft leather goods and accessories, or hand-paint them onto hard-sided luggage. Going a step further, the brand proposed a new concept called Mon Monogram in 2008. A set of two-tone initials of up to three letters, either vertical or diagonal stripes or a combination of both initials and stripes, can be chosen from a range of 17 different colours. Computer simulation helps you visualise exactly how your bag will look, and your unique product is created and hand assembled over a period of six to eight weeks before being delivered to you.

Burberry
Burberry

B is for Burberry
In the sartorial universe, you know you've gone from being a boy to a man when you've got a suit to show for it. And not just any suit at that. Go the whole nine yards and make it a bespoke Burberry. The brand's legacy of tailoring stands lean and strong on the tenets of fabric innovation, modern design and traditional hand-finished details. What you get is an understated silhouette with a distinct British attitude. The fabric used is produced in English and Italian mills exclusive to Burberry, the suit is designed by the brand's top designers in London, and each one is tailored and hand-stitched by seasoned tailors in Italy. Available in three distinct fits - slim, modern and classic - each masterpiece defines you as a man.

Gucci's Horsebit Loafer
Gucci's Horsebit Loafer

Gucci's Horsebit Loafer
Gucci's trademark iconic Horsebit loafer - the one that's been worn by the likes of Clark Gable; the one that depicts the double ring and bar motif from the equestrian world; the one that was inducted into the permanent collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1985 - turned 60 last year. To mark the anniversary of what has come to be known as 'the most iconic Gucci shoe ever made', was the brand's exclusive 1953 collection. Released just last year and fashioned to match current styles, the collection is available in a bold combination of colours and material from patent leather and suede to exotic crocodile and python, featuring a new rendition of the equestrian hardware. For further detailing, each shoe carries a special label with the "Gucci 1953 Made in Italy" script to recall the shoe's legacy.

Paul Smith Stripes
Paul Smith Stripes

Paul Smith Stripes
Paul Smith's colourful association with the mini has become synonymous with the brand's identity. First executed in 1999 to mark the 40th anniversary of the Mini Cooper, the aesthetic appeal of this idea made it a seasonal regular in the brand's identity. Accessories have always been key to the brand, and for the past few years, the 'mini on location' has been used to brandish various products within this division to herald the new season. Here's how the tradition works: the mini car, painted in the iconic Paul Smith multi-stripe, is driven and parked at a different locations - from the forest, to outside one of the brand's stores, or even indoors. A photo shoot is carried out and the resulting image becomes the print of the season for a number of products, including bags and wallets. Furthermore, it is used as a way of adding character and a signature look to the brand's stores.

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