Granddaddy of lightweights

In a world of super-luxury lightweight suits, meet the suit with the finest yarn.

Bibek Bhattacharya        Print Edition: June 29, 2008

When we spoke of lightweight wool some issues ago, we told you how lightweight suits have emerged as the most comfortable thing to graze your skin. Despite the claims of cotton and linen, wool can also get really fine, with fabrics that flow over your skin.

And while wool comes in fine Super 150s and 180s, you also get some wonder fabrics that are as fine as Super 220s and 230s— made of very fine wool yarn with a high thread count. So, imagine our surprise at discovering a suit made with wool so fine that there are only about 200 of them in existence. We’re talking of the Canali Esperidi suit, of course. Here’s why it’s a limited edition.

Fabric: The Esperidi cloth is made in Italy from superfine Australian Merino wool, which is widely considered the best in the world. Esperidi supplies the yarn for ultrafine Italian fabrics that you’ll get at any speciality fabric store.

Yarn: An exceptionally fine yarn of 12.4-12.8 microns is used for this fabric. This is the heart of Esperidi’s uniqueness. The finest of fine yarns, like the Super 200s used by Savile Row tailors like John Foster, are seldom below 13 microns. It’s the “sound barrier” of fine yarn, which the Esperidi cloth breaks with ease.

Tailoring: With a brand like Canali, fine tailoring is a foregone conclusion. The tailoring ensures that the fabric retains its feel and texture even after stitching. Availability: There are only two such suits in the country at the Canali store at the Taj Deccan in Hyderabad.

 Number crunching

  • 500 million kg of Australian Merino wool is produced every year

  • Only 1,300 kg of this wool is below 13 microns

  • 140: The number of suits made from Esperidi Super 220s available around the world

  • 80: The number of suits made from Esperidi Super 230s available globally

  • Rs 2 lakh: The approximate price of these limited edition suits

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