NAVU: Inventive plates and a burst of flavours at Bengaluru's hotspot

In a nondescript part of Bengaluru’s Domlur, warm lights cast a soft glow on a yellow-and-white awning reminiscent of an old-fashioned American diner. There is an unassuming familiarity, as if the place has always been there. This is NAVU, a refreshing culinary venture with a menu as diverse as it is unconventional. Behind this restaurant, open only for dinner, are two formidable and passionate women, Kanishka Sharma and Pallavi Mithika Menon, who are cooking up a storm and ensuring the soul of their brainchild touches the soul of each diner.

I step into a bustling yet relatively quiet space. On this Saturday night, tables are full, and the minimalist decor gives no hint of the maximalist gastronomic experience that is about to unfold.

The story began in 2016, when Kanishka ran a supper club. Her love for food led her to meet her future co-founder Pallavi, who volunteered to cook for one of these increasingly popular sit-down meals. Three years later, their shared passion culminated in NAVU Project followed by a pop up at Bangalore International Centre, which opened in 2021, and has since found a permanent residence in Domlur, the sole location for NAVU.

NAVU, the word for ‘us’ in Kannada, belongs to a new wave of distinctive, chef-led restaurants redefining fine dining in India, offering inventive menus and using food as a form of creative expression.

Arriving in time for the 9 pm seating despite Bengaluru’s traffic, we began with the chef’s take on the classic crème brûlée, where the hero ingredient was cauliflower. This silky, melt-in-the-mouth dish set the tone for what NAVU does best: contemporary cuisine with a creative twist and authenticity at its core.

The two-page à la carte menu is cuisine-agnostic but carefully curated. Dishes and the small selection of non-alcoholic beverages evolve regularly, so diners often find unexpected new delights. We happened to visit on a day when a new menu had just launched.

Kanishka explained, “We do not have a specific frequency for changing the menu. For example, we had a cherry pie on for two or three weeks, but once the cherries were gone, we had to take it off.” While seasonality and local sourcing matter, the duo does not restrict themselves entirely to these factors. Innovation drives their concept.

That innovation was evident in the next dish: mustard ice cream served with sourdough crisps on a bed of pickled cherry tomatoes. The tartness and gentle pungency made an immediate impression, but the flavours soon balanced out, making it a table favourite.

“The aim has always been to bring everyday luxury to the dining table. Instead of approaching food from rigid perspectives and separating experiences in that sense - we let our creativity and access to quality ingredients guide us… Something as everyday as tomato or coconut can show up differently each time; you just have to notice. In this manner both naturally and organically we create plates that are designed to both comfort and impress,” said Pallavi.

As a dedicated non-vegetarian, I found the beef tartare to be a highlight. The subtle nutty flavour of the sunchoke purée paired with the umami of the anchovy caper vinaigrette elevated the minced meat into a fresh, juicy medley. The NAVU Carbonara, made with thick noodles similar to Italy’s hand-rolled Bigoli, featured bacon and chilli crisps, while the beef steak in carrot velouté with caramelised onions and shiitake offered a harmonious combination of textures and layered flavours.

The vegetarian dishes were equally striking. The Mushroom Parfait, with its creaminess offset by crunchy baguette slices, and a dish simply titled ‘Cabbage’, rich with miso celeriac purée and brightened by chilli lime vinaigrette, stood out. The Miso Aubergine, served carpaccio-style with a miso and mulberry dressing, balanced umami richness with a sweet, tangy lift.

Even parsnips get a creative twist. Talking about the process of bringing their collective knowledge and experiences to the plate, Pallavi said, “At NĀVU, we love texture and using the same ingredient to create multiple textures within the same dish…  Many don’t realise the parsnips are very versatile and can be used for anything, ranging from an ice cream to a warm soup. Confit parsnips on a velvet-like purée made with parsnips and milk, garnished with crisp chips that are almost sweet, reminiscent of almonds. This layering unlocks a sensory experience that reflects its versatility and amplifies its subtle flavours using different cooking techniques.”

Dessert brought its own pleasures. The Limoncello Swiss Roll, with zingy lemon curd and limoncello jelly, acted almost as a palate cleanser after the richness of the mains. The NAVU Rhubarb Walnut Pie offered a blend of sharpness, warmth and richness, perfect for a cosy evening with tea or coffee.

In a city where pre-booking is essential for popular restaurants, expansion might seem the natural next step. Yet NAVU remains committed to being a single-location venture. “It is intrinsically about us. We do not wish to spread ourselves thin. We are quite happy with where we are at the moment, with our evolution, our food and our vision for NAVU,” said Kanishka.

The vibe stays unfussy and intimate, allowing NAVU’s flavour-forward innovation to shine. “We are usually the first to come in and the last to leave,” say Kanishka and Pallavi, who continue to delight diners six nights a week, six years on.