Cold weather, weak skin: Dermatologists explain how to fix winter dryness the right way

As harsh winter sweeps its way into North India, dermatologists are flagging a predictable but often misunderstood problem: seasonal dryness is less about missing moisturiser and more about a weakened skin barrier. Cold air, indoor heating and lifestyle habits are stripping skin of its ability to retain moisture, prompting experts to call for smarter, not heavier, skincare routines during the colder months.

According to Dr Amit Bhasin, Founder and Managing Director, Prive Skin Clinic, winter causes the skin to lose moisture at a much faster rate than usual because cold air contains less humidity, reducing water content in the outer layers of the skin.

“Cold air holds less humidity, and this reduces the water content in the outer skin layers. At the same time, hot showers, indoor heating, and harsh winds weaken the skin barrier,” Dr Bhasin said.

“When this barrier is compromised, the skin cannot hold moisture effectively. It becomes dry, tight, itchy, and more reactive.”

He added that for Indian skin, which is already exposed to pollution and sun stress, winter-related barrier breakdown can also trigger redness, flaking and uneven skin tone. “Winter dryness is not just about lack of moisture. It is about a weakened barrier. Once the barrier is supported, irritation reduces and the skin starts to feel comfortable again,” he said.

Echoing this view, Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, Chief Dermatologist and founder at Alive Wellness Clinics, said winter leads to increased transepidermal water loss, as cold outdoor air and indoor heating dry the environment.

“The skin’s protective barrier weakens as natural lipid production decreases, making it harder to retain moisture and leaving the skin tight, flaky, and sensitive,” Dr Chhabra said. He noted that frequent transitions between cold outdoors and warm indoor spaces create micro-damage to the outer skin layer, while hot showers and low water intake further strip natural oils.

“These changes disrupt the skin’s balance, so I advise focusing on extra hydration, barrier repair, and protection to maintain healthy skin in winter,” he said.

Dermatologists say winter skincare does not require additional steps but smarter adjustments. Dr Bhasin said harsh, foaming cleansers should be replaced with gentler formulas to avoid stripping natural oils, while moisturisers should be richer than summer variants and applied on slightly damp skin to reduce moisture loss. Exfoliation, he said, should be reduced to once a week.

“What must stay the same is sunscreen. UV damage continues in winter and often worsens dryness and pigmentation, even indoors,” he said.

Dr. Chhabra also stressed the need to prioritise hydration and barrier protection. He recommended using non-foaming cleansers and moisturisers containing ceramides, glycerin and hyaluronic acid. “Cleansing frequency stays the same, but avoid hot water, and limit exfoliation to prevent further barrier damage,” he said, adding that sunscreen remains essential year-round.

Both experts highlighted confusion between hydration and moisturisation as a common winter skincare mistake. Dr Bhasin explained that hydration adds water to the skin, while moisturisation seals that water in by strengthening the skin barrier.

“If you only hydrate without moisturising, the water evaporates quickly and dryness worsens,” he said.

Dr. Chhabra agreed, noting that low humidity and indoor heating accelerate moisture loss. “If you only hydrate the skin without moisturising it, water evaporates quickly, worsening skin dryness,” he said.

On ingredients, Dr. Bhasin said winter routines should prioritise barrier-repairing components over aggressive actives. “Ceramides are key because they replace the natural lipids that hold skin cells together and prevent moisture loss,” he said, adding that fatty acids, cholesterol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, squalane and shea butter help retain moisture and reduce sensitivity. Low-strength niacinamide, he said, can also improve barrier function and calm inflammation.

Experts also cautioned against overusing strong exfoliating acids, frequent retinoids and aggressive treatments during winter. “This does not mean stopping them completely, but reducing frequency, lowering strength, and pairing them with good moisturisation,” Dr Bhasin said.

Neglected areas such as lips, hands and body skin tend to worsen faster in winter because they have fewer oil glands and are exposed to frequent washing and friction. “In winter, prevention works better than repair,” Dr Bhasin said, advising early and consistent use of barrier-supporting products.

Lifestyle habits also play a role. Hot showers, indoor heating and low water intake weaken the skin barrier further, experts said, making daily habits as important as topical products during winter.

If limited to just three changes, Dr Bhasin said people should prioritise switching to a richer moisturiser applied on damp skin, continuing daily sunscreen without exception, and avoiding hot water and harsh cleansers.

“These three steps protect the skin from dryness, irritation, and long-term damage more effectively than adding extra products,” he said.