When it comes to fashion, what would be your ultimate definition of luxury? Will it be something extremely expensive? Yes. Will it be that designer outfit you've coveted for a long time now? Absolutely! But real luxury, I'd say, would be something so exclusive that it's been made just for you! No wonder then that
bespoke fashion has become the ultimate mark of luxury in the fashion world.
From top brands such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton to a local one in your market next door, everyone is offering bespoke services in some way or the other. Whether it is customizing a particular accessory or creating your very own bespoke suit, the possibilities are endless. All you need to know is what you want and be rest assured that it'll be done in a manner that is chic and very you!
Depending on your requirements and budget, there are many brands that you can choose to go for. One such brand is Pezalli Pvt Ltd.
Founded by Anupama Sachdeva three years ago in Singapore, Pezalli sources fabric from some of the most exciting names in fashion from across the world such as Zegna, Alumo and Canclini. It aims to retail its work to premium stores across India and the world.
BT More got chatting with Anupama and bespoke menswear consultant and designer at Pezalli, Gary Foo, about bespoke, its process and what sets Pezalli apart from others.
BT More: Could you throw some light on the bespoke process at Pezalli?Anupama Sachdeva: Pezalli brings to Asia what gave London's Saville Row and Jermyn Street their impeccable sophistication: cutting a shirt according to a man's exact measurements and perfecting it through several fittings. The company is among the rare few whose bespoke service includes expert fashion consultations and advising in the choice of design details, fabrics and colours that best suit an individual's physique and lifestyle. Each Pezalli shirt is made with a practically invisible 23 stitch per inch single-needle lockstitch method for an iconic, must-have French seam, Australian mother of pearl buttons with wrapped shanks that slip easily into the buttonhole, and a signature reinforced gusset - all complementing luxurious Italian and Egyptian Giza cottons for unparalleled softness and comfort. The process takes about 7 days for locally sourced Egyptian cottons and about 14 days for Sea Island and Swiss cottons from Europe.
BT More: What are some of the advantages of opting for a bespoke shirt over a ready-to-wear one?Anupama: The most distinguishing advantage of a bespoke shirt over ready to wear is the fit and the customisation in terms of styling - different type of collars and cuffs, adequate allowances by recommendation or client's request to accommodate the bulges in the body, etc. Bespoke tailoring is borne of precise and immaculate craftsmanship and made according to the size and body specifications of a particular individual as every wearer has a unique body weight, neck and body posture, bulge areas and shoulder slope. A ready to wear shirt has only 2 measurement parameters to choose from- the chest and the collar. The wearer has to then settle for a shirt that is right in some areas but not in others. I am sure each of us has come across situations where we like the fit of a brand but have to compromise on either the collar size or take sloppy shoulders to accommodate the waist line. All this is taken care perfectly well in bespoke as pattern is cut based on each individual's body shape together with recommended suggestion given to the client. Further wearer preferences and customisation of collar and cuff shapes, fabric choices and personalised monogram initials are only possible in Bespoke or
Made to measure. BT More: Tell us three signature Pezalli pointers that make a bespoke piece from Pezalli stand out among others?Anupama: We emulate the essence of traditional craftsmanship of imperial origins and re-construct it with modern and sophisticated designs to produce an exceptional piece of workmanship. We started Pezalli with a mission to make the best known shirts in the world. We can proudly say that we produce one of the best crafted shirts in Asia. We have the highest stitch count of 23 stitches per inch narrow French seams in a completely in-house German technology set up and we source fabrics from some of the top 16 mills of the world which include the Swiss Alumo, Italian Canclini and the sorts and complimented with a perfect fit with our unique 18 point measurement method to make a true connoisseur's delight: a shirt that confirms flawlessly and comfortably to your body, is rich in couture details such as ultra-smooth 23-stitch-per-inch seams (the highest stitch count available anywhere) and precision pattern matching side to side and front to back and Mother of pearls used in a Pezalli shirt.
BT More: Bespoke has been a mark of luxury for many years. Now, with so many brands and designers offering bespoke services, isn't the whole concept sort of losing its luxury element?Anupama: In times past, if a gentleman needed a new shirt, he visited his personal tailor. There he looked through hundreds of luxurious fabrics, discussed the design of each shirt component, and was exactly measured so that the finished garment would mould perfectly and comfortably to his body. Now Pezalli reinvents that sartorial ideal for today's faster paced world - retaining the master craftsmanship and personalized style options of bespoke tailoring, but executing it with state-of-the-art German equipment and technology.We emulate the essence of traditional craftsmanship of imperial origins and re-construct it with modern and sophisticated designs to produce an exceptional piece of workmanship. We are one of the few in the market who believe and want to revive the art of tailoring. The whole process of making this shirt takes us 4 hours as we use a combination of machine and hand sewing technique. The shirt is cut to exact measurements and improved through several trail fittings. This is the element of luxury and perfection. Now days we hear of Designers working more on designs and concentrating less of fits. Also not all designs and colours are to suit one skin tone and personality. Bespoke is very individual and personalised. A designer piece is something not everybody can carry, moreover designer pieces are altered to fit and not made according to an individual's measurement.
BT More: How different is the menswear market in Singapore from that of India?Gary Foo: Singapore is primarily a shirt country owing to its tropical climate compared to India where suits are prominent and regarded as a status symbol for top corporate executive. Menswear trends first come into Europe, and then to Singapore and much later to India. Again people preferences on colours are quiet different in Singapore and India. Colour preferences in India are more of shades of brown, yellow, and green which is not normally seen in Singapore, that includes strong shades of blue as well. Pink is the next hot favourite after white and even preferred to blue among Singaporeans. In terms of fitting wise, India tends to prefer a roomier cut for shirts and pants compare to Singapore market which in most cases tend to result in a lot of excess fabrics!
