The Swiss watch fairs of 2012 have been abuzz with astronomical dials, chimes that run on acoustic physics and new discoveries in the mechanic dynamism of precious metals. Let's take a look at the movements that put the watchmakers' scientific and artistic abilities to test.
Blancpain
VILLERET SQUELETTE 8 JOURS
A skeleton complication is the true test of a watchmaker. A mesh of finely cut metals need to work in precision and look artistic. Blancpain's openworked Villeret manages this beautifully. The skeleton watch is chamfered, engraved and then fitted with sapphire crystal on either side. Movement Three series-coupled barrels ensure an eight-day power reserve.
Breguet
TOURBILLON FUSEE
In 1795, Abraham Louis Breguet crafted the first tourbillon by mounting the escapement and the balance wheel in a rotation cage. Elevated over the surface of the dial, this placement could negate the effects of gravity and give precise readings in whichever position the watch was placed. The Tourbillon Fusee is a rose gold reedition of the Tradition 7047 launched in 2006. Like its predecessor, it features a black silicon balance spring which looks striking against the new black galvanic coated and engine-turned 18-carat gold dial. Movement Hand-wound tourbillon studded with 43 jewels.
Parmigiani
TORIC MINUTE REPEATER
Parmigiani doesn't have an enduring heritage to speak of but it is dedicated to restoring historic horology. This model reprises the special sector seconds movement from a 19th century Perrin Frres pocket watch in a striking half-moon aperture. It has 60-minute indexes with each quarterhour sector in 5-minute markings. The dial features a geometric design set in mother of pearl. Movement Calibre PF 321 with cathedral chimes.
Girard Perregaux
1966 MINUTE REPEATER
Before the advent of electric lighting, minute repeaters would strike the hours with catchy sounds. Centuries later, the sound continues to evoke the same reverence. This pink-gold classic conceals under its dial two coiled circular gongs. For optimum resonance, the diameter of the calibre is balanced with that of the case. Its acoustic merits stem from the curved case-back which increases volume of air inside and a diamond polishing that reduces interference. Movement It creates 21,600 vibrations per hour.
Rolex
SKY DWELLER
For Rolex purists, the 24-hour markings on the ring epitomised not just its famous dual-time feature, but also the brand's spirit. This new piece has opened up avenues for form and function. Frequent fliers can keep tab of their home time through an arrow pointing towards an hour number on the rotational disc in the centre of the dial. This can be controlled by rotating its indented bezel. The chocolate sunray dial is complemented by a polished everose gold casing. Movement Self winding dual-time with a perpetual calendar.
Omega
CONSTELLATION
Unlike the conventional Swiss level escapement that triggers a sliding friction between the hidden toothed wheels, the co-axial movement connects the watch's bearings on a mere radial impulse. This means less friction and removes any need for lubrication. The co-axial Constellation features 18-carat rose gold stars, some recessed into and others engraved over its mother of pearl dial. It is also studded with fullcut diamonds, 144 on the bracelet and 32 on the bezel. Movement In-house calibre 8521.
Chopard
L.U.C LUNAR ONE
Endowed with a perpetual calendar, the watch indicates time in every unit: the date, the hour, the minutes and the seconds. Taking things to a whole new level, the small seconds axis displays the phases of the moon. The difference in accuracy is a mere 52.7 seconds per lunar cycle which boils down to one in 122 days. Movement Bears the Poinon de Genve quality hallmark.
Roger Dubuis
PULSION FLYING TOURBILLON
The brand that's kept its faith in the dexterity of skeleton movements unleashed yet another one at this year's SIHH watch fair. The Pulsion Flying tourbillon features a sapphire crystal that's directly screwed onto the the case, as though allowing you to feel it. The numerals are engraved under glass and are highlighted by the luminescent metal workings. Movement Hand-wound mechanical with 165 parts plated with anthracite rhodium.
Montblanc
NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGRAPH
To commemorate the 190th anniversary of French horologer and inventor of chronographs Nicolas Rieussec, Montblanc has launched a piece that's set in blued steel. Like in the original, the hands don't rotate over all sub-dials, and instead maintain their accuracy. The blued steel dial is offset by the colour brushed metallic screws. Movement Monopusher
Breitling
TRANSOCEAN UNITIME
With a globe in the centre and a bezel embossed with world cities, the watch almost yearns for a traveller's wrist. A simple turn of the crown will update the time, date and city. Its polar white dial sits pretty in an 18-carat rose gold casing. Movement World timer precise to 1/4th of a second.
Zenith
EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969
The El Primero chronograph shot to fame in 1969 because its automatic mechanical series-made calibre was precise to 1/10th of a second. The subdials on the new chronograph imitate the original in terms of colour and placement. Movement El Primero 4061calibre with a 50-hour power reserve
