Inside Maya at 787: Where Indian spice meets Spanish soul

A few evenings ago, I found myself stepping into Maya with a plus one, expecting a good dinner and leaving with something far more transportive. This is not a restaurant that simply feeds you. It invites you into a carefully constructed illusion, one that plays with memory, spice, technique, and theatre in equal measure. The name Maya, drawn from the Sanskrit word for magic or illusion, is not decorative branding. It is a promise the kitchen keeps from the very first bite.

Where illusion meets intention

Maya’s philosophy sits at a fascinating intersection of Indian warmth and Spanish finesse. The space itself mirrors that duality. There is comfort without heaviness, elegance without stiffness. Lighting is low and flattering, conversations hum rather than echo, and the mood feels curated for lingering. It is the kind of room that encourages shared plates, unhurried conversations, and the quiet thrill of discovery.

The menu reads like a series of riddles. Familiar Indian flavours appear, only to be nudged sideways by Iberian ingredients or techniques. Spanish olive oil replaces ghee. Sherry wine sneaks into gravies. Jamón, cava, Manchego, and bomba rice coexist effortlessly with chaat masala, kala masala, and mustard seeds. It sounds ambitious on paper, yet at the table, it feels intuitive rather than experimental.

Opening acts that set the tone

We began with Mango Salsa Puris, a playful opener that immediately establishes Maya’s confidence. Crisp pooris cradle fermented mango salsa, finished with Spanish olive oil, sea salt, and smoked paprika. The flavours land in quick succession. Sweet, sour, smoky, then clean. It tastes nostalgic and unfamiliar at once, which becomes a recurring theme throughout the meal.

The Paprika Hemp Chaat followed, built on crisp potato, trio chutneys, bhang seed papdi, and anar gel. It is texturally addictive, with smoked paprika adding depth rather than heat. This is chaat that feels dressed for dinner, not street food cosplay, but a refined evolution of it.

One of the standout starters for us was the Hibiscus Chai Samosa. Inside its crisp shell sits a filling scented with hibiscus tea and black truffle, accompanied by dal crisp, chutneys, and basil oil. It sounds indulgent because it is, yet it never tips into excess. The floral notes lift the richness, making each bite feel deliberate rather than decadent for its own sake.

Small plates with big personalities

As the evening unfolded, Maya revealed its strength in small plates that punch well above their size. The Manchego Kachori pairs sweet onion, mango launji, puffed black rice, and chutneys with the nutty sharpness of Spanish Manchego. It is clever without being clever-clever, allowing each element space to shine.

For something heartier, the Jamón Dahi Kebab is quietly confident. Spanish Ibérico ham meets the familiarity of a dahi kebab, finished with ajwain honey. It is indulgent, yes, but balanced, and surprisingly restrained.

Seafood lovers will find plenty to admire. The Pescado con Papadam layers black garlic, gunpowder spice, and mint chutney with delicate fish, while the Amritsari Albondigas reinterpret fish fritters through a Spanish lens, served with char-grilled peppers, tomato sauce, and pickled onion. These dishes feel global without losing their Indian soul.

Mains that linger in memory

For mains, we leaned into dishes that felt comforting yet complex. The Black Chicken Korma stood out for its depth. Black onion, black garlic, yoghurt, and Lucknowi kulcha create a dish that is rich without heaviness. It is slow, layered cooking that rewards patience.

Vegetarians are not an afterthought here. The Root Kurma, built around root vegetables, black onion, black garlic, and Malabari parantha, is deeply satisfying. It tastes grounding, earthy, and thoughtfully composed, proving that restraint can be just as luxurious as indulgence.

Then there is the Maya Paella, a centrepiece dish designed for sharing. Spanish bomba rice carries prawns, chicken, saffron, thyme, and white wine with ease. It arrives fragrant and generous, a dish that encourages conversation to pause, if only briefly, while everyone leans in for that first spoonful.

Mocktails and quiet theatrics

Maya’s drinks menu continues the narrative rather than distracting from it. Non-alcoholic cocktails like the Hibiscus Martini, Churro Chai Latte, and Sangria de Azafran feel thoughtfully crafted rather than like placeholders. Even the cold-brewed iced teas, from Earl Grey Apple Mint to Raspberry Hibiscus, are layered and refreshing, designed to complement the spice-forward food rather than compete with it.

Sweet endings, done right

Dessert at Maya does not scream for attention, and that is precisely its strength. The Spanish Orange Cake with Mishti Doi balances citrus brightness with gentle sweetness, while the Mango Nankhatai Basque Cheesecake is comfortingly familiar yet refined. We shared both, lingering longer than planned, unwilling to rush the final act of the evening.

The lasting impression

What makes Maya memorable is not just its clever fusion or its beautifully plated dishes. It is the sense of intention behind every choice. This is food that respects tradition without being constrained by it. Dining here feels like being let in on a secret, one that reveals itself slowly, course by course, sip by sip.