Betting on India's fast evolving fashion market, H&M banks on sustainability and Gen Z appeal with its Stella McCartney collection

H&M's collaboration with iconic fashion designer Stella McCartney returns 20 years after its debut, offering Indian consumers a mix of iconic silhouettes and contemporary fashion. Launching on May 7, the Stella McCartney H&M collection brings together oversized shirting, sweeping trenches and signature tailoring with playful archival pieces like slogan tees and embellished prints. Beyond aesthetics, the collection stands out for its material innovation, including recycled feedstock, organic cotton and certified wool, while prices starting at ₹2,299 aim to democratise designer access, especially for Gen Z consumers. In a conversation with Business Today, Helena Kuylenstierna, Director, H&M India, talks about the brand’s India strategy, the growing influence of Gen Z, the role of sustainability in shaping fashion choices, and how H&M is balancing global design with local relevance in one of its fastest-evolving markets.

What makes the Stella McCartney H&M relaunch relevant for the Indian consumer today, both culturally and commercially?

HK: I really love this collection. I was at H&M when we collaborated with Stella McCartney two decades ago as well. She was the essence of cool back then and such a role model within the sustainability space. It’s amazing that 20 years later she is still that essence of cool and still so credible within fashion. That is also what made us decide to partner again. Both of us have been very true to our commitment to sustainability since then. I think that will resonate well with the Indian consumer. 

We also see that Gen Z has a stronger interest in what brands stand for and what brands value. Sustainability is high on their agenda. Over 90% of the collection is either recycled, organic or innovative materials. This might especially be the first chance a young Indian woman gets to own a designer piece because they’re starting from ₹2,299, which is very attractive. That will really resonate with consumers in our market.
 

Can you share more about the sustainability aspect and the materials used in the collection?

HK: In essence it is organic, recycled, and also very innovative materials with certified suppliers.

What I love about the collection is that it is so cool. Then you get the aha moment that it is sustainable as well, I think that will really be appreciated by the consumer. Sustainability is there and very important, but the fashion is credible and strong first. 
 

How do such global collaborations help H&M build aspiration in a market like India?

HK: We were early pioneers in fashion collaborations. I remember working in store when we launched Karl Lagerfeld. That was my first designer piece and I still remember that feeling. That is what we want to bring to the market. Our passion is about bringing the global fashion scene to India, but also bringing India to the global fashion scene.

That’s why we have worked with Indian designers like Sabyasachi and Anamika Khanna. We see it as a two-way street. It’s about giving access and affordability, but also giving a platform to Indian designers globally.
 

Who is the woman this collection is speaking to today, especially in India?

HK: I think this collection represents what it is like to be a modern woman. She is confident, strong and fierce, but also effortless and playful. It really shows that you are not one or the other. You can be both. You can wear the playful hoodie one day and sharp tailoring the next.

For someone new to Stella, I think the bags and the sharp suits, like the double-breasted blazer, will be appreciated. Those are iconic pieces. For me personally, it is the 'Rock Royalty' piece. It is very nostalgic for me and something I would love to pass on to my teenage daughter. I think that's an important part of credible fashion. There's a chance of actually being able to gift it to someone, and then they can keep it, and they can pass it on. It all ties back to longevity and circularity. 

How is H&M balancing global fashion authority with local relevance in India?

HK: We celebrated a decade in India recently and from day one, there has been strong love for H&M. That is because we bring a global fashion lens. At the same time, we need to adapt to the local market. There are many strong local brands and we need to stay relevant and competitive.

We work with Indian models and influencers so consumers can relate to what they see. We also respect Indian culture. We create collections for Diwali and Holi. We also adapt to climate. For example, when it is 41 degrees in Delhi, our linen collection becomes very relevant. There is also a strong love for colour in India, so we bring more colour and prints. It is about balancing a strong global identity with local relevance.
 

What does your expansion strategy in India look like?

HK: We have 71 physical stores in India today and a good expansion pace. We recently opened in Jodhpur, which is our first store in Rajasthan, and we are opening another store in Delhi soon.

We don’t think strictly in terms of tier 1, tier 2, tier 3. We look at where there is a fashion-aspiring crowd that will resonate with us. At the same time, our biggest presence is H&M.com, which already covers about 95% of India. So digital is equally important for us.
 

What are the biggest shifts you are seeing in Indian fashion demand today, whether in terms of occasion wear, everyday style, or category growth?

HK: The market is moving very fast. The younger generation is more open to mixing styles and self-expression. It is not about strict categories like occasion wear or western wear anymore. It is more about styling and personal expression. We will see more fusion, combining traditional and modern pieces. This is something we are very passionate about.

Also, the importance of what a brand stands for is increasing. It is not about logos, but about values. Sustainability and authenticity matter a lot. Previous generations wore clothes, this generation wears fashion. And that shift is happening faster in India than many other markets.
 

How important is India in H&M’s global growth roadmap today, and can you share any broad targets around store expansion or market scale over the next two to three years?

HK: India is a fast-growing and important market for us. We have ambitious plans both in physical stores and digital. We are also expanding categories. We launched H&M Home, H&M Move, and now H&M Beauty. These extensions show our belief in the market.
 

Which categories are seeing strong growth in India?

HK: India has a fantastic men’s fashion scene. That is quite unique globally and something we are very excited about.

At the same time, the growth of young Indian women is very exciting. Their approach to life and fashion is different. That is also why we launched H&M Beauty. We see strong potential in the intersection between fashion and beauty for this consumer.
 

How is H&M using AI in its operations?

HK: AI is a fantastic tool that supports everything we want to achieve, including sustainability. We have been using AI for several years across our value chain. In supply chain and logistics, it helps with accuracy so we buy only what we plan to sell and reduce waste. It also helps reduce waste in production and improve planning. These are important ways AI supports our sustainability goals.

We are also exploring AI in creative areas like marketing and design. But we see it as a supporting tool. Creativity cannot be replaced, but AI can support the creative process.