Dirty Apron reopens at The Piano Man with experimental Eurasian cuisine and an intimate dining experience

Nestled above The Piano Man, Eldeco Centre, New Delhi, Dirty Apron has marked its re-entry into Delhi's dining landscape. With no dramatic relaunch or overwrought theatrics, Dirty Apron’s revival feels like a measured exhale in a city that rarely stops rushing, and the focus continues to be on experimental dining. The restaurant returns with the unmistakable signature of European comfort intertwined with Asian soul.

The space sets the tone before the first plate arrives. As the evening settles in, candles glow and conversations soften. The stark black walls are interjected by decorative wooden arches lending a sense of coziness and intimacy. The new menu is the playground of Chef Manoj Pandey’s vibrant culinary language. It’s a balanced beginning with the Amuse Bouche-Tempura Baby Spinach, where the tempura-fried baby spinach with wasabi sauce gives the right level of umami boost to your palette. Adding a pop to the appetiser is the artificial caviar made in house offering a mix of balsamic and cranberry zest. 
 

Dirty Apron’s reconstructed Tom Kha takes familiar flavours and reframes them with restraint while the Caesar Salad 2.0 nods to nostalgia without being tethered to it. The Edamame & Truffle Dimsums are indulgent without feeling excessive while the Truffle Chicken Kiev offers comfort you would want to return to.
 

“We already had a strong patron base for Dirty Apron but had to shut down during the pandemic. On our return, we wanted to reinvent our Eurasian menu. While the fusion of Asian and European cuisine is not new, but the reinvention which we strive for here, is what elevates it,” says Chef Manoj.
 

His vision of elevation of the cuisine reflects clearly in the well charred Miso Lamb Chops, where every bite is soft, rounded and indulgent. This is taken a notch above with the pickled tiger prawns that rest in a vermouth sauce, which is an elegant and aromatic contrast to the prawns’ clean, briny sweetness. Another notch in the hat in the experimental menu of 30 dishes is the Spicy Miso Black Cod.
 

“Dirty Apron has always been intended as a dedicated playground for our partner chef Manoj. The nuances of the fine dining experience are difficult to create in The Piano Man as the focus drives one towards the stage, and Manoj is a phenomenal chef, so we've been wanting to bring back the space that was created as a culinary playground,” says Arjun Sagar Gupta, Founder, The Piano Man group. 
 

It was a mixed bag on the dessert front. Crunch gave way to creaminess in the Baklava Cheesecake, where the textured bite of baklava melded seamlessly with the softness of the cake. While the Molten Chocolate Cake with the Strawberry Sorbet stood out in their own right, they did not fully come together as a cohesive bite. The intended contrast of using the sorbet’s tanginess to offset the cake’s richness felt promising, but the balance could have been sharper. That said, this is also the appeal of experimental dining: allowing the palate to explore new combinations and engage in a sensory journey sans predictability.
 

As Chef Manoj sharpens his focus on his craft and creativity, Dirty Apron by choosing not to chase trends reaffirms values of slow dining, thoughtful flavours, and an atmosphere that encourages presence. It reminds Delhi of something essential—that good restaurants do not demand your time; they earn it.