Phra Nakhon at Capella Bangkok: A plant-based journey down the river of kings

The gentle lapping of the Chao Phraya River provides a soothing rhythm to an afternoon at Capella Bangkok. Here, within this sanctuary of riverside luxury, Phra Nakhon restaurant unfolds like a love letter to Thai culinary heritage. Bathed in the soft, sun-washed light of its contemporary conservatory, the restaurant offers a seamless transition to a lush, garden-fringed terrace right at the water's edge. It is a setting that is at once serene and deeply connected to the vibrant lifeblood of Bangkok. It was here that I embarked on a remarkable culinary exploration: the Chiva Jit, a nine-course vegan tasting menu that showcases the versatility and depth of plant-based Thai cuisine.

The experience, priced at 1,800 Thai Baht for one person, is more than a meal; it's a narrative of Thailand's rich bounty, thoughtfully crafted by Chef Kannika Jitsangworn, whose expertise is rooted in generations-old family recipes. The restaurant's commitment to fresh, locally sourced ingredients is palpable, with some herbs and vegetables even plucked from the hotel's own organic garden.

My journey began with the Miang Jay, a vibrant parcel that awakens the palate. Marinated tofu, crispy coconut chips, peanuts, and slivers of shallot, ginger, and lime are bound by a palm sugar dressing and delicately presented on a fresh betel leaf. It's a symphony of textures and tastes, a perfect prelude to the dishes to follow.

Next, a duo of salads showcased the complexity of Thai flavours. The Larb Hed, a seasonal mushroom salad, was a revelation. The earthiness of the mushrooms mingled with the bright notes of mint, the crunch of roasted rice, and the sharp zest of lime and chilli flakes. Following this was the Yum Som-O Med Mamuang Him Ma Pahn, a refreshing pomelo salad. The sweetness of the fruit was beautifully contrasted by the heat of chilli, the fragrance of kaffir lime leaves, and the satisfying crunch of cashew nuts, all brought together with a tamarind dressing.

A delicate and comforting Gaeng Juad Woonsen Tam Lueng arrived next. This clear vegetable broth with ivy leaves, tofu, and glass noodles was a gentle interlude, its subtle flavours of coriander, spring onion, and fried garlic providing a moment of quiet contemplation.

The main courses demonstrated the kitchen's mastery of vegan preparations. The Tao Hu Kao featured house tofu in a rich tamarind sauce, balanced with the sharpness of pickles and the freshness of herbs. It was a dish of comforting simplicity and profound flavour. This was followed by the Gaeng Kiew Wan Pak Ruam, a classic green curry reimagined. Seasonal mixed vegetables and coconut milk created a creamy and aromatic curry, with the unmistakable fragrance of Thai basil.

The wok-fried dishes were a testament to the versatility of plant-based ingredients. The Tempe Phad Khing offered wok-fried tempeh with a fragrant mix of ginger, onion, mushrooms, chilli, celery, and spring onion. The Phad Maklua Yao presented wok-fried eggplant with salted bean, chilli, garlic, and Thai basil, a savoury and satisfying creation.

The culinary journey concluded with Loy Kaew, a dessert that captured the essence of Thai sweetness. Preserved seasonal fruit in a delicate palm sugar and lime syrup was a light and refreshing finale to an extraordinary meal.

Dining at Phra Nakhon is an experience that transcends the plate. It’s about the seamless blend of authentic Thai flavours with a modern, conscious approach to dining, all set against the timeless backdrop of the Chao Phraya River. The Chiva Jit menu is a powerful statement that vegan cuisine can be as rich, complex, and soul-satisfying as any traditional fare, offering a truly memorable taste of Thailand's culinary heart.