The Tamara Kodai review: A hill station hideout that gets it just right

There’s a particular kind of silence in Kodaikanal, one that isn’t empty but full. Full of rustling trees, distant temple bells, and birds that actually sound like birds (not car alarms). The Tamara Kodai, tucked away just enough from the town centre, knows how to tune into that frequency.

I arrived not entirely sure what to expect. A luxury resort in a town that’s often overrun by weekenders and school trips can go either way. But within five minutes, I was sipping welcome tea under a canopy of trees, the wind cool enough to make me forget I had checked a weather app five times that morning. First impression: calm, but not sterile. The kind of place that’s elegant without trying too hard.

The property itself is a beautifully restored 19th-century monastic retreat, originally built to house priests. It has since been carefully transformed into a luxury heritage resort that pays homage to its colonial past without getting stuck in it. Think warm teak floors, tall French windows, wide verandas, and weathered stone facades. There’s history in the bones of this place, but it’s been draped in all the comforts a modern traveller might crave.

Walking through the resort feels like wandering through a secluded hamlet. There are 53 suites, all generously spaced out along cobbled paths and landscaped gardens that bloom with wildflowers and coffee plants. Every suite comes with its own private balcony or sit-out, and mine had a panoramic view of the Palani Hills, shifting from lush to misty within the span of a single cup of tea.

The interiors toe the line between rustic and refined. My room was all high wooden ceilings and vintage-style furniture, with just enough contemporary touches like a modern rainfall shower to remind you that you’re firmly in 2025. Evenings were best spent by the fireplace, wrapped in a shawl with a book, the kind with actual silence and the scent of paper.

Let’s talk food. Every meal at The Tamara was a low-key affair in the best way possible. No molecular gastronomy nonsense, just well-cooked, thoughtfully plated dishes. Their South Indian breakfast spread was the kind that makes you rethink why you ever settled for cereal. And dinner? The staff was attentive, but never hovered. You could linger over your coffee without feeling like you’re holding up service, which, for someone who treats meals as events, is a big win.

Now, the spa. Look, I’ve had massages in fancy spas across continents. But the massage I got here? It might just be the top five. Maybe even top three. The therapist had the kind of intuitive touch that makes you believe in magic. I walked out feeling like my bones had been rearranged (in a good way), my soul exfoliated, and my brain reset. No hyperbole.

Afternoons were for slow walks around the estate, where every corner seemed to open up into something postcard-worthy. I spent an embarrassing amount of time just sitting by the pond, watching dragonflies and questioning every life decision that’s ever led me away from the hills.

One evening, I took a guided nature walk with one of their in-house naturalists. We saw bison tracks, learnt the names of a dozen native trees, and paused at a viewpoint where clouds rolled in like stage curtains. The Tamara doesn’t just place you in nature, it gently teaches you to pay attention to it.

Is The Tamara Kodai worth it? Without a doubt. It’s not trying to be the flashiest resort in the hills, and that’s exactly why it works. It understands stillness. It respects nature. And it gives you just enough luxury to feel pampered, without making you feel like you’re trapped in a brochure.

Whether you’re a burnt-out urbanite or a couple looking to disappear for a bit, this place will gently tug at your sleeve and say, “Stay a while.” And honestly? You’ll want to.